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Campy 9 speed cassette questions(8 posts)

Campy 9 speed cassette questionsMe Dot Org
Sep 24, 2001 8:38 AM
I have a 2001 Chorus Racing Triple (27 speed). The rear cassette is 13-26:

13 - 14 - 15 - 16 - {17 - 19} - {21 - 23 - 26}

I'm beginning to feel like I'm outgrowing this cassette, but wasn't sure if I could move all the way up to 12-23, so I was thinking about a small incremental change to a 12-25:


...But it looks like this combination is not available. In fact, it looks as if there are not 24 or 25 tooth cogs made, that you have to select either 23 or 26, correct? And if that is the case, isn't it cheaper for me just to buy a new 12-23 cassette?

Finally, what tools do I need to pull the cassette off the wheel?
re: Campy 9 speed cassette questionsCliff Oates
Sep 24, 2001 10:26 AM
You would need a Park BBT-5 tool and a chain whip to remove the casette. You might be able to play mix and match with Veloce loose cog casettes (Branford Bike page) or just go with either a 13-23 or 12-23 casette.
re: Campy 9 speed cassette questionsMe Dot Org
Sep 24, 2001 4:11 PM
Thanks - I had been looking at Chorus Only and hadn't thought about Veloce (or Daytona or whatever they are calling Daytona's successor).
re: Campy 9 speed cassette questionsCliff Oates
Sep 24, 2001 4:26 PM
FWIW, I live in the SF Bay Area too, and my Campy triple bike is set up with a 13-23 (my other bike is 10 speed and has a 13-29). By the time I am spinning out in the 13, I'm going fast enough (35mph or so) to just get in a tuck and coast. The 30-23 ratio is enough to get me up anything I've enountered so far.
How big a change?Kerry Irons
Sep 24, 2001 3:56 PM
If you drop from a 26 to a 23, that's a bit less than a 12% drop. If you were climbing at 80 rpm (at your limit) in the 26, you'd drop to a 71 cadence. But you're telling us that you're not at your limit with the 26, so maybe your cadence would drop only 5 rpm by losing the 26. Odds are good that you don't need anything smaller than the 13. As you progress in your riding, learning to spin should be a key element. Very few riders can turn a 52/13 or 53/13 at over 100 rpm, let alone the 110-120 rpm you should strive for in your development as a cyclist. You should consider the 13-23, which gives you an excellent cassette progression (13-19 straight block plus 21 and 23) and probably all the range you need.
How big a change?Me Dot Org
Sep 24, 2001 4:09 PM
Thanks for the feedback. When I'm going down a moderate to fairly steep incline, it just feels like I can pedal as fast as I can (I don't have a cadence meter) without getting the bike to go much faster. Everyone seems to talk about getting their bikes to go 50 mph, but I can't seem to go over 42.

Anyway, I'll be doing my first Century in a while this weekend, so it should be a good test of whether or not I'm ready for 12-23 or 13-23.
Not pedalingKerry Irons
Sep 25, 2001 5:01 PM
To go 50 mph downhill, you need a steep, long hill and a good aerodynamic tuck. Even with a 53/11, 42 mph is 113 rpm. 50 mph would be 135 rpm. Getting into a tuck will allow you to go faster. My own experience is that unless you are in a racing situation and really cranking it, you're easily ahead to coast/tuck at anything over 35 mph.
Not pedalingMe Dot Org
Sep 25, 2001 9:09 PM
This is what makes me believe I've been riding alone for too long. Thanks for the input!