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2001 Utegra crank arm bolts are self extracting?(5 posts)

2001 Utegra crank arm bolts are self extracting?Texbaz
Sep 17, 2001 2:37 PM
I have a LS Ultimate that has 2001 Ultegra. The bike has recently developed a creak only when I'm out of the saddle, I have pretty much narrowed it down to the BB,crankarms, or chain rings.
My question is does the new Ultegra require a crank arm extractor like my
old 600. I have heard conflicting stories. The Service instructions that
came with the bike pertaining to the crank assy and Bottom Bracket don't
really mention the use of any special tool for extracting the crank arms
other than " The crank arm can be removed simply by turning the fixing bolt
counterclockwise". I have a Park tool a BBT-2 to check the torque on the BB
once accessed
Can anyone tell me, do I need the extractor tool.
Thanks
Mike
Yes..butnestorl
Sep 17, 2001 5:16 PM
Make sure your bike actually have 2001 cranks. You can check by simply looking at the dust cap.. the self extracting dustcap has to little holes for the special wrench. It seems based on your instructions that you have a splined bb and crankset...so the instructions are right...just turn the wrench and the crank will eventually pop out ;-) magic! BUT BE VERY VERY VERY VERY careful when installing it... you can destroy the BB and the crankset if you misalign it. READ about it a lot or take it to your LBS...and even they may mess it up :-)
re: Yes, but another viewpointMike Prince
Sep 18, 2001 3:32 AM
Just because the self-extracting bolts are there doesn't mean you have to use them. Most of my friends who wrench in shops take them out completely when they work on the crankset. A few reasons:

- To guarantee the crankarm extracts properly (no damage), the outer ring must be screwed in completely. Otherwise you risk the ring potentially loosening and tearing out when you try to self-extract. This could destroy the arm as there may be no more threads for a remover to thread into. For the shop it is easier (and safer) to remove the bolt assemblies completely and use an extractor.

- When reinstalling, it is easiest to visually line up the splines without the bolts in. That's the other reason to remove them when extracting as above. Then the bolts can be reinstalled to the proper torque and the outer retaining ring properly tightened as well. Keep in mind that the splines will not "engage" until the bolts are tightened. All you are doing by hand is lining things up. Tighten VERY carefully to make sure there is no abnormal resistance. The splines on the BB spindle will deform the aluminum crankarm splines if things get crossed up. If the bolt binds up at all, loosen immediately, check all surfaces for interference/damage and start over.

Don't mean to scare you, but better to be safe than sorry. Even the guys in the shops hate these. Most of my friends remove the self-extractors altogether and replace them with a conventional bolt that requires the use of an extractor.

If you do use the self-extractors, make sure to disassemble them as a maintenance issue and clean & lubricate all of the internals (inner dust cap, plastic washer and bolt shoulder surfaces) to make sure the parts can slide against each other when rotating. Otherwise you will find the cranks more difficult than need be to remove whan the time comes.
Yeahnee Spoke Wrench
Sep 18, 2001 8:00 AM
I don't think that self-extracting cranks are going to go down as one of Shimano's better ideas.

The only time I remove my cranks is when I'm in my shop. I have a crank extractor tool there so I don't use the self-extractors. They take an extra step to install properly and it's important to do it right or you'll screw up your crank. Even if I had an S&S bike that I traveled with, a crank tool isn't so big and heavy that it would be a pain to pack along.

It looks to me like the potential problems outweigh the benefits unless part of your business happens to be selling replacement crankarms.
re: 2001 Utegra crank arm bolts are self extracting?amflyer
Sep 19, 2001 1:49 PM
Check this if you haven't already...put some oil on the front dropouts. I had the same symptoms as you, but this is where I eventually found the noise. Sounds stupid, but...