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What's the difference between Dura-Ace & Ultegra?(5 posts)

What's the difference between Dura-Ace & Ultegra?Allen phx
Sep 3, 2001 7:34 AM
I'm planning to build up a LOOK KG281 frame. Besides the weight, what's the difference? Is the shifting faster, smoother, or quieter?

Thanks,
-Allen
re: What's the difference between Dura-Ace & Ultegra?nestorl
Sep 3, 2001 8:06 AM
check the reviews for the ultegra STI.... tons of nightmare stories. I would check prices for new complete groups kits(check GVHbikes.com) and then compare that to how much would it be to have a mixed bike by buying the individual parts. There are things that you may not need dura ace and Ultegra would be fine like break callipes, Cranks, BB, front dr. But you should keep a few things Dura Ace because of performance (and weight) like STI shifters, Cassette, chain, and rear D.
Check the reviews for the individual parts. Although after the tragedy that happened to this site a few days ago, teh reviews may be gone or incomplete. Cheers.
About $400pmf
Sep 4, 2001 5:09 AM
Ultegra is the best component deal out there. There was some problem in the past with the shifter rattling, but that was solved. There was also a design defect in last year's shifters, but that is no longer a problem. Shimano is very good at warranty problems -- especially when they know there is an underlying problem.

I think DA does shift a little smoother and it is lighter. I use it on my bikes, but there is nothing wrong with Ultegra. Its a good group.
re: What's the difference between Dura-Ace & Ultegra?Ian
Sep 4, 2001 12:54 PM
Enjoy your KG281, I had one, but just sold it to upgrade.

STI - Dura Ace feels a little more precise and crisp than Ultega.
Crankset - Arm shape is slightly different and D/A is lighter. Main difference is D/A rings are nickel plated.
Cassette - Some D/A cogs are ti.
Bottom Bracket - D/A is 25% lighter but is much more finicky.

Those are the main differences I can think of.
re: What's the difference between Dura-Ace & Ultegra?schwinnpro
Sep 5, 2001 3:12 PM
Don't forget, the STI levers have heavier return springs. The list of diff's is quite long. If you can afford the D/A, spring for it! It's well worth the extra $$. You cannot run a triple, although you soon will have that choice. On the BB, Epoxy the 2 bearing races to the spindle before initial installation, be sure to seat them completely onto the spindle race stop(D/A BB)! It just keeps things solid.(a tip I picked up from the team wrench)