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What wheels to buy?(8 posts)

What wheels to buy?Schaf
Jul 31, 2001 10:34 AM
I have a 2001 Cannondale R600, and it comes stock with CXP-21 rims laced to CODA crap hubs. The wheels are heavy, slow and unreliable, and I am looking for a good replacement. Ideally I'd like to spend less than $350 and weight and durability are my primary concerns. I've been considering the Spinergy Spox R2, Mavic Cosmos, Sun Pro Race, and Rolf Vector Comps. Let me know which you would reccomend, or if there is something I don't have on that list what it is. I weigh 165. Thanks for all your help. Michael-
How do you use your bike?Spoke Wrench
Jul 31, 2001 2:16 PM
What's appropriate for a two hour criterium might not be so good on a week long tour.

I just returned from RAGBRAI. In our group we had a woman who had a cartridge bearing in her Spinergy shoot craps. Spinergy says send it back to the factory. Not much help if you're in Grinell and going to be in Coralville tomorrow.

If you want fast wheels, I'm sure there are go-fast riders on this board who will give you plenty of advice. If your goal is to impress the people in the parking lot, buy whatever you think looks good.

If you want a reliable wheelset to ride, I think that Open Pro rims laced onto Ultegra or better hubs by a guy who understands what he is doing are pretty hard to beat. And you can get them fixed in Grinell.
Choosy Monkeygrzy mnky
Jul 31, 2001 12:46 PM
Worth is in the eye of the beholder. ;-) I often do the same sort of cost/benifit analysis and will sometimes use a spread sheet to keep track of it all. I play on the Shimano side of the fence so maybe the Campy side will speak to your issues. I use the index of $100 per ounce. Anything under this is worth considering first. You looking at running Speedplays? How about downtube shifters - huge savings in money and weight here.

I would considerable thought to the brakes and find out what the real skinny is on them. If Campy/Shimano could make a well performing and durable brake for less weight they'd do it in a heart beat. Call me a skeptic or call me realisitic, but it would be one of the areas in which a failure is unacceptable. They'd be very popular if they worked as well, cost the same, and were lighter. You may be comparing a pair weight to an individual caliper weight.
It's not ALL about weight, is it?bill
Jul 31, 2001 1:49 PM
Front derailler: price difference is minimal. Why bother with Chorus? I'm not exactly sure what is the difference in the build, and it may be entirely cosmetic, but it's probably just a teensy weensy little bit sturdier and a little better finished, and, what the hey. (Chorus is lighter? Really? I don't know, but I find that hard to believe. Identical or close, sure. But, lighter? But that does say that Record is probably sturdier. Worth the $5-$10.)
Record brakes: They sure are purty. I don't know anything about the function of the other brakesets you've selected, but, if they're about the same price, and I can't believe that they're THAT much different in weight (especially with Record's new rear brake), you've got to think about aesthetics some. Record brakes work great. I'll assume that the others do, too. So, what're you gonna do about it? You buying Record, or what?
Chorus cassette: I agree with you here, go Chorus, although Branford bike says that the projected life of Chorus vs. Record ti is 8 yrs vs. 7 yrs. I'm not sure I buy that, and the price difference is huge. I've got Record with Chorus cassette. Works for me.
Crank: Here's where I really have to work on you. The Record crank is gorgeous. It is distinctive. If you are going to blow the bank on Record, it's mostly because of aesthetics, right? (Weight? yeah, right. Methinks you doth protesteth too much.) I've heard that Record is also a tad stiffer (which I question; even if true, how much different?), but it is a little lighter than Chorus, and it is beautiful. It says Record as much as anything else. Don't be a dope. Get the crank. You'll thank me later.
Rear Derailler: A bit tougher call. There is quite a price difference, with some weight difference (although I'm not sure that it meets Grzy's $100 oz). I thought about this one too (and the first time you lay it down and scratch it up, it smarts -- little bit of nail polish though, and it's as good as new -- as a matter of fact, for a non-structural part, where you don't worry about integrity as much, it probably is easier to clean up a scratch on CF than with an alu part; does that count as a reason to go Record?).
Headset: Remember that, with a carbon steerer, you don't get to use the Record cap. I've got a Chris King; I wanted those sealed bearings and minimal maintenance, so I can't comment beyond that.
Bottom line: in for a penny, in for a pound. In two years, are you going to miss that couple of hundred bucks as you admire that soft Record finish? Go for it.
Gawd, let's hope not! (nm)grzy mnky
Jul 31, 2001 4:38 PM
re: Saving money by being pickyclimberted
Jul 31, 2001 9:19 PM
If you have the cash to buy Record do it. It's Record, what thats not enough. I am a shimano user. However I THINK I might be in the minority when I say that I wish I could afford Record. I expect to get blasted, but I rode a buddies bike with Record and I loved the way it shifted and worked looked etc. If it is a small amount of money go record. It's not al about weight. Consider also the resale value..... Should you decide that you don't like it, for some reason record I think? should hold it's value better, who knows. Oh i agree with grez on the break thing Good luck
$270 for a Cassette is bank robbery!LC
Aug 2, 2001 3:40 PM
I can't believe anyone can justify $270 for a Record Cassette. Oh, i see they also have a cheaper Record cassette with steel for only $170. You would have to be either crazy or sponsored to fork out for one of those.
No....Campy! ;-b(nm)grzy mnky
Aug 3, 2001 8:13 AM