|built brand new bike - but have a chain rub problem||wes_london|
Jun 29, 2001 6:40 PM
|when in the small chainring i am getting rub from the bigger chainring when using the bigger gears at the back.
i dont expect to use the 12 tooth cog but 13 and 14 tooth cog still has the chain twisting to pass the the big (53) tooth ring. is there a way to space out the bottom bracket (splined italian) or put a shim or spacer between the right crank arm and rings and the bb.
its not a crazy setup and i have the correct series 9 speed cranks, chain, cassette and hub. my bike was built up at my lbs and as far as im concerned this should have been adressed.
again i do not expect to use 39 x 12 or 53 x 23
|re: built brand new bike - but have a chain rub problem||mackgoo|
Jun 30, 2001 12:05 AM
|First, rotate each crank arm back even with the chain stay, measure the distance between the stay and the crank. Is it about even? If not, I know the last bike I built, actually it was my first and only, you could unscrew one of the cups some then tighten the other side efectivly sliding the B/B over some one way or the other. Start with the measuring, because if the cranks are off center you may end up feeling it after a while.|
Jun 30, 2001 6:27 PM
|expect to loose 3 gears in the back to rubbing with a 9 speed system, possibly 4 with a 10 speed system. The problem is with the narrower front derailleur, if you put the front derailleur to the point where there is rub with only one gear you'll have to move the derailleur over to the point that it won't downshift from the 53tooth. Part of the reason campy supplies trimming capabilities in thier shifters. TTFN|
|the rubbing has nothing to do with the front der.||wes_london|
Jul 1, 2001 1:54 AM
|the front derailleur is fine and normal but the rubbing is only when the chain is on the 39 tooth chainring and riding in the 14 tooth and much more on the 13 tooth in the rear. i can see where it is rubbing against the bigger tooth (53 chainring) when the chain doesn't have a clear "line of sight" and is twisting to pass thru.|
|the rubbing has nothing to do with the front der.||mackgoo|
Jul 1, 2001 2:59 AM
|Did you measure the distance from chain stay to crank arm on each side?|
|May be common, but wrong||Kerry Irons|
Jul 3, 2001 6:33 PM
|This sounds like a chain line problem. The ONLY gear I lose on my 13-23, 39/53 Campy setup is the 39/13 due to the chain rubbing on the big ring. If you're losing 3 or 4 gears, things are set up wrong.|
|all is ok. lbs agreed to refit the crank.||wes_london|
Jul 4, 2001 1:33 AM
|after getting the guys at the lbs to take it for a spin (riding shows more than cranking on a bike stand) they agreed to shift the crank slightly and add a spacer. all is now set apart from the usual 39 x 12 rub. thanks to all that replied.
i was worried that i may have stuffed up in putting a real frankenstein list of parts together but all is now working together perfectly.
colnago master piu in glorius red with lots of chrome including straight fork. fsa cranks (625g) and ultegra bb. campy veloce shifters and rear der, daytona front. sram 89r.cinelli integralter stem/bar in black. campy ti post with selle italia ti. campy delta brakes. world class 32 hole hubs, revolution spokes and reflex rims. spare front rolf pro. conti sprinter's all round. wheels manufacturing 9 speed with campy spacing. new campy aero bottles. looks and rides dead hot. crazy mix of old and new.
i really wanted an individual ride. bought, sold, stripped and traded three italian bikes over two months just to raise the cash to get all the bits together. all is new except for the frame/fork and brakes. net cost including shipping and build price - less than $1000. less than 20 pounds. no way i would have done it without this site.
my beautifull baby is finally all set and spinning madly.