|Vittoria Open Corsa CX Tread||Cima Coppi|
Jun 27, 2001 5:03 PM
|Does anyone know if the tread on these tires is directional? If so, which way should they be mounted? Thanks in advance. |
|I believe all road tires are mounted with the label...||J.S.|
Jun 27, 2001 5:11 PM
|on the driveside. Old school road thing is to have the label located at the valve hole, not sure why.|
|That's what I thought, but...||Cima Coppi|
Jun 27, 2001 5:18 PM
|My LBS mounted the tires with the label on the non-drive side, so I was really confused. I also usually went with the idea that the pointed direction of the herringbone (sp?) pattern was toward the front of the bike.|
|That's what I thought, but...||Jofa|
Jun 27, 2001 5:42 PM
|The pattern's only there for prettiness, it has no function, so you can mount it however you like. As someone said, driveside by the valve is traditional.|
Jun 28, 2001 2:34 AM
|If you mount the tread v backwards, it throws the water out the rear of the tyre as it compresses (if you are on a hard surface) - the other way round, it throws foward - makes a noticeable difference in roll resistance.
BTW - I mount the tyre label alongside the rim stickers on my open pros - still on the drive side - looks neater to me than by the valve hole.
These matters are of great importance of course....
Jun 28, 2001 3:20 AM
|It doesn't throw the water anywhere. (Except of course the following rider's face).The herringbone pattern is so fine that it becomes effectively slick upon contact with the road... which is a good thing, as it's repeatedly been shown experimentally and theoretically that tyre tread designs, of any sort (for bicycles) only decrease grip and increase rolling resistance. Unfortunately few manufacturers are brave enough to make the slick tyres which will work best. But I know what you mean, it seems to make intuitive sense... so much, again, for intuition.
There's been much head scratching about tyre label location. I'm embarrased to find myself taking care to park my bike in my house with the labels at the top of the wheels..
Jun 28, 2001 10:24 AM
|I take your point re fast/training tyres - makes sense - but I have some touring road tyres for the MTB that have chunky treads on them - and boy you notice if you have them on the wrong way round - there must be a depth/width point at which the tread comes into play.
Interestingly (ish) motorcycle wets are treaded (as opposed to slick for dry tracks) but made of a softer compound - the compound does the gripping and the treads shift out the water and stop the tyre aqua planeing.
I guess the problem with wet slicks on bikes is two-fold - the compound would have to be so soft that the tyre would wear rapidly on anything other than a cold wet road, so you'd need an extra wheel set, and secondly, that no-one (me included) is going to fancy steaming around a corner in the set over a smooth metal inspection hole cover or similar without some tread - it's a confidence thing...
Jun 26, 2001 7:59 PM
|It's not the slickness that reduces the wet-weather grip of bicycle tyres, but the water film over the road surface. Cut treads work for car tyres because the front edge of the contact patch is wide and straight, and also because cars travel at very high speeds. Hydroplaning- where a volume of water builds up between the tyre and the surface- is the result, unless tread cuts route the water away. Bicycle tyres present not only a much smaller but a cigar-shaped contact patch- ensuring that hydroplaning cannot occur. In that case you want as much rubber on the ground as possible, given that the grip is already compromised by the wetted road.
Larger diameter mtb tyres are still far from capable of hydroplaning, so for smooth surfaces like roads, pure slicks are still ideal- wet and dry. I've always liked the ancient Specialised FatBoy's here. The fact that your tyres perform differently when reversed is probably down to the different noise the tread makes on the ground.
There was a long thread on RBT recently going into all of this in the sordid detail... I'll try to dig out the URL, they always make entertaining reading.
Also Muncher... I was going to head out your way last Sunday, but I got tied up- a riding buddy lives in Kingston, and I may find myself out in the auld country (Surrey) fairly regularly at the weekends. Where do you guys meet for your Sunday rides?
Jun 29, 2001 2:23 AM
|The Waterside centre, off Stoughton Road, Guildford - 9:15 start. It's 5 mins ride from the station - multimap.com will give you the info.
Alternatively, I meet MJ at the station at 830 as he gets the train down from Clapham Junction - if you want to come along, we could meet up there to make it easy - let me know - it'd be good to have you along.
|Siding with Jofa...||biknben|
Jun 28, 2001 10:45 AM
|The tread on a bicycle tire is close to if not completely useless. Keep in mind that a motorcycle tire is wider and has to deal with much higher speeds. I can't imagine a 23mm tire hydro-planing.
Cornering on a wet manhole cover is going to scare me even if I'm on my MTbike.
|Siding with myself....||muncher|
Jun 29, 2001 2:17 AM
|All that is fine and dandy, and indeed correct. All falls down thought when you have a dirty road - you need the tread to cut throught it - take it to it's logical conclusion and we'd all be riding slick mountain bike tyres.
Tread patterns do make a difference, believe me re those mtb touring tyres - put em on the wrong way round and yes they are noisier - that's 'cos they are resisting more, and you can really feel it too. That's why you can get car tyres for economy (low rolling resistance) or extra grip (tread patterns), and indeed why some MTB tyres are directional.
That's why if I am feeling like a really tough training session, I ride on the bars backwards with the free wheel to get the benefit of the extra excercise....
|MTB tires vs. Road tires...||mr tornado head|
Jun 30, 2001 4:30 PM
|In regards to MTB tires, certainly there is a difference. That's because the surface they are intended for use on (dirt) is softer (sometimes) than the tire, giving the tire's tread something to bite in to. If mounted bacwards, they indeed give more resistance. BUT if these tires are ridden on the road, while one direction is somewhat better than the other, it still has a large rolling resistance due to tread squirm on the road's surface which is harder than the tire, and will force the tire to comform to it's (the road's) pattern.
Road-specific tires can utilize this and thus slick tires are a much better ideal in this realm (on the dirt, you'll spin all over the place). Wet or dry, road bike tires do not have the contact patch nor the speed where a tread can make a difference as far as *increased* traction.
As for wet sewer grates or painted lines on the road, well, there's not much help there.
|Quick reference to check tire after a puncture||12x23|
Jun 27, 2001 6:04 PM
|Mounting the tire with the label at the valve makes it quick and easy to check the tire after a puncture. Just match the tube puncture to the tire to check that nothing is left in the tire; so you don't deja vu all over again. (Apologies to Yogi). ;-)|
|12-23 is Right||carbonguy|
Jun 27, 2001 7:51 PM
|its totall a easy way to find a puncture!|
Jun 28, 2001 10:19 AM
|You put the label on the drive side so it is shown in catalog pictures. I was once told this while building bikes for a show.
You will also notice in pictures that the label is at the top where it can be read right side up. Valve stem is at the label or opposite the label. Depends on who you talk to.
I like 12x23s idea about checking for flats.
|Thanks Everyone!!!||Cima Coppi|
Jun 28, 2001 8:32 AM
|Your input is always appreciated!!! |