|Is there anything stronger and lighter than 32open / 14gage?||Bruno S|
Jun 25, 2001 5:03 PM
|I have been breaking spokes on my rear 32 open pro 14/15/14 gage wheel. The LBS is rebuilding the wheel under warranty since it has only about 1500 miles on it. I weight 180. This is not the first time that this happens and I'm getting tired of having to cut rides short because of broken spokes. I had plenty of cash in my pocket to buy a new wheelset but when I asked the guys for stronger wheels from the LBS told me that there was not much I could do other than go for a heavier cpx33 rim. Is there any wheelset that will be stronger than open pros but its also lighter?|
|Build or component problem||Kerry Irons|
Jun 25, 2001 6:26 PM
|Short of you doing a lot of curb hopping, a poor quality hub, or poor quality spokes, there is no way you should be breaking ANY spokes! Assuming your wheel has brand name spokes (e.g. DT or Wheelsmith) and hubs (e.g. C or S or a number of other good products), then all signs point to a bad build. Typical source of spoke breakage due to poor build quality is not enough tension - the spokes flex excessively with each revolution and that "works" the spoke heads and they break at the hub. Another thing to look for is sharp edges on the hub flanges - unusual but possible. My money is on not enough/uneven tension in the original build. If the problem continues after the warranty work, everything points to the builder.|
|Build or component problem||Jofa|
Jun 26, 2001 7:18 AM
|I concur 90% with what Kerry says: excepting that I think the primary reason for spoke breakage is poor or non-existent stress-relieving by the builder. Uneven (or low) spoke tensions will only result in the wheel failing (taco-ing) under a lighter load, or losing true, rather than broken spokes (presuming that the tension isn't so low that spokes are completely unloaded in normal use). In my experience the vast majority of bike shop wrenches don't properly stress-relieve the wheels they build.
I strongly support Kerry's contention that well-built wheels of this design should be more than strong enough for somebody far heavier than you, however. Even if they weren't, the first sign of weakness would be a total failure of the wheel... broken spokes are only caused by a poor build.
nb. this is all presuming your chain hasn't dropped behind the cassette and mangled the drive-side spokes, a condition which your lbs would have diagnosed had it been the case.
|Build or component problem||Bruno S|
Jun 26, 2001 8:46 AM
|The hubs are Ritchey and they have countersunk holes and should be ok according to the LBS. What I didn't do after the last build was to take it back after a few hundred miles for an adjustment. I believe I've heard that this is required with new wheels but I am not sure.|
|Build or component problem||Jofa|
Jun 26, 2001 9:56 AM
|The 'adjustment' is only necessary if the spoke twist from building was not adequately removed by the builder. In this case, the spokes will relieve the twist themselves when they are unloaded at the bottom of the wheel, and the wheel will lose trueness. This won't happen on a properly built wheel which will stay true indefinitely, but in any case it isn't the cause of spoke breakage. Nor, btw, will a heavier- duty rim (ie. CPX33) help prevent spoke breakage... only a decent build will do this, presuming that the hub/spoke interface is good and in order, which it invariably is assuming standard parts; I'm sure the Ritchey hubs are fine.|
|at your weight||ColnagoFE|
Jun 29, 2001 10:57 AM
|go for a 36 spoke CXP33 rear...properly built these will be bombproof. 32 hole should work fine for a front.|| |