|how to change lubricant in hubs||fork|
May 23, 2001 5:42 PM
|hi i want to change the lubricant for a lighter type in my front and rear hub. what i must to use for cleanig up the old one. i have used clean casoline to wash all the system before. now i have new bike and want to do everything right. is it good to wash te system with casoline or must i dry it only with the cloth.|
|re: how to change lubricant in hubs||Cory|
May 24, 2001 10:16 AM
|Cleaning them in gas is fine as far as getting them clean goes. It's sort of risky, what with pilot lights in the garage and whatnot, and not environmentally sound, but it gets the grease off. Since you have the hubs apart you might as well replace the bearings with new ones, because they're cheap and it's no extra work.
Swapping the grease for something lighter probably isn't worth the effort, though. You'll theoretically have less drag, but it's such a tiny amount and the wheel is such a long lever that you'd never be able to feel it while you're riding. You can use something like 30-wt motor oil, but it's going to run out eventually and shorten the bearing life.
|re: how to change lubricant in hubs||fork|
May 24, 2001 12:18 PM
|thanks! i'll try the 10W30 motor oil, i have it anyway. on sunday i race 140km. after it will go back to grease.|
|what is the standard?||nuke|
May 24, 2001 10:28 AM
|Hmm...what IS the standard lubricant anyhow? I just use a tube of bearing grease (don't know the weight).|
|If it Ain't Broke....||grz mnky|
May 24, 2001 1:08 PM
|...don't fix it. Seriously! |
The reduction in drag on fully loaded bearings is minute and won't make a bit of material difference in your race results. There is a reason why "bearing grease" is used instead of "motor oil" - on all bikes. The viscosity of 10W30 is wrong for the application and design. It will mostly run out past the seals, and get thrown radialy outwards getting on you, the bike, and the _braking_surface_ of the rims. Once you're done with you race you can pretty much forget replacing the grease and just focus on getting a new set of hubs - if not right away it will be soon. You will not have adequately protected your bearings and races. Why not replace the air in your tires with Hellium like the TdF riders were doing?
You'd be better off using the time you would have spent to get more sleep so you can better concentrate on riding efficiently and smart.
If you're going to do it it is better to use one of the citrus based degreasers. Not only is it better for the environment it's much better for your body and skin. FWIW - Gasoline is a known carcinogen in the State of California. Kerosene is still bad, but not as volitile.
|If it Ain't Broke....||fork|
May 24, 2001 5:38 PM
|thinking hard on the topic " getting oiled allover." i have been using
my new bike for 1900 miles with factory crease. richey hubs. how many miles bearings usually can take? how often must be greased?
if new, how many miles needed to get best of them?
|If it Ain't Broke....||grz mnky|
May 24, 2001 6:21 PM
|Bearings can last a _very_ long time if properly cared for. Keep the well adjusted, clean and repack when the grease gets dirty. A quick way to kill them is to let them get out of adjustment, remove the grease and get some grit in there - then run them hard. |
Mostly service intervals depend upon usage - just like a car. I normally repack the bearings once per yer, but if you notice anything out of the ordinary or you spend a bunch of time in a harsh environment (sand, salt, dirt, rain, etc.) then you may want to do it sooner. Now I'm riding sealed bearings so there is little to do.
|It probably Ain't Broke....||Kerry Irons|
May 24, 2001 6:56 PM
|Assuming your hubs are cup and cone with loose bearings, it may be time for an overhaul, especially if you've been caught in the rain. There is no need for solvent to clean the hubs, just wipe the grease off with a rag or paper towel. If the bearings are still shiny, and the cups and cones have only a thin wear line (where the bearings run) then you just need to put in some light grease, reassemble, and adjust the hubs properly. Oil will not appreciably speed you up.
Since it sounds like you know nothing about maintaining the hubs, doing this just before a race might not be the best idea. You run the chance of ending up with badly adjusted hubs, having more friction than you have now, and destroying the bearings, cones, and possibly the hubs.
|If it Ain't Broke....||Jamm|
May 25, 2001 11:05 PM
|The bearings will not be ruined with 10w-30 oil after 1 race.
If you don't live in California then there is no problem with the gasoline as a cancer causing agent. Can you believe that?: Grzy thinks gasoline will cause cancer after 1 short exposure?! LOL!!
He's probably never gotten his hands dirty.
|Shade tree bike mechanics ...||rattled|
May 26, 2001 12:17 PM
|Using Gasoline to clean hub races is stupid. Just clean them out with a clean cloth as mentioned above. If you are really retentive, use a biodegradable solvent, such as offered by Finish Line or Pedros ...
And wtf puts motor oil in their hubs??? Use grease (again- Park, Pedros and Finish Line offer excellent options here) *once a year* and forget about it. Check your hub adjustment at regular intervals in between and you will be fine.
If some one came into my shop with motor oil dripping out of their wheelset and ruined hubs I would laugh in their faces ...
|Shade tree bike mechanics ...||fork|
May 26, 2001 3:09 PM
|yeah! being now smarter than few days ago. thanks do you all! i used clean cloth and small amount grease from "coda"(mountain extreme grease A394). in the local shop they sell also "finish line", but theyr grease was sold out.
which grease from finish line is the best?
May 25, 2001 7:39 AM
|For goodness' sake, use grease. Just don't pack them so full the bearings can move much.
If it were a 10 mile extremely important time trial, where you are in contention for a big prize and almost certain to win, it might be different. On a 140k, you'll likely destroy your hubs with no grease in them.