May 20, 2001 6:16 AM
|I have a Kalloy seatpost on my Trimble carbon bike. When I tried to adjust the post slightly, I found the post doesn't budge at all. Any ideas/suggestions getting the post loose?|
|Liquid Wrench||Jonathan Zook|
May 20, 2001 7:57 AM
|There is a product found at most auto parts stores called Liquid Wrench. I have used it to free up rusted bolts. You may want to try it. Of course, first make sure the chemical will not harm the bike. Also, if you try it, let it settle into the seat tube for a half-hour to and hour. Good luck|
|short course in seatpost removal||Retro|
May 21, 2001 10:40 AM
|There was a long thread about this a few months ago. What everybody finally decided was that oil and wd-40 and whatnot won't work. Ammonia is reputed to dissolve the corrosion that forms between the post and seat tube, but I've never tired it. Trickle it in and let it sit for several hours, giving the post an occasional whack with a hammer.
If that doesn't work, you may have to sacrifice the post. You can try a big pipe wrench on it, or a major hammer to drive it DOWN and break the bond, or clamp the post in a vise and turn the bike (more leverage than trying to turn the post with a wrench).
Last resort (much less nervewracking with a steel frame than an aluminum one) was to cut the post off with a half-inch or so showing, then use a hacksaw blade held in vise-grips to saw the post vertically, inside the seat tube. Then you can get a screwdriver or tiny chisel in there and break it loose. Good luck.
|re: Frozen seatpost||lonefrontranger|
May 21, 2001 4:14 PM
|In ascending order, depending on your level of desperation:
Defcon 1) Lube and twist
Defcon 2) BFH (engineering term for get the biggest hammer you can find)
Defcon 3) the hacksaw method, as described above
Defcon 4) I've seen this method used with fair success, and it's not quite as scary as the hacksaw-inside-the-seattube method. Saw off the top of the seatpost to expose the innards. Take a hair dryer on the hottest setting as it will go and heat the OUTSIDE of the seat tube until it's very warm to the touch - this will make it expand slightly (never ever use a torch or soldering iron for this, just a plain old hair dryer does the trick) Next, take one of those CO2 tire inflators and shoot a whole cartridge of CO2 down inside the seat pillar - don't freeze your fingers as you do so! The seat pillar will chill and contract inside the heated seat tube, and this is usually quite sufficient to break the oxidization bond. Presto! No turning, wrenching, or bending the frame required.
|three sigma case (*1) ...||Breck|
May 22, 2001 10:30 AM
|solution looking for a problem. engage mind in the small ring. use start up gear such as a 39X17. pedal the gear. pedal harder. click up/down to the 15 freewheel. pedal harder still. get the brain spinning. engage thought process. solve the problem. crest the hill. post comes loose on the way down. heres how it goes..... |
1) get a roll of black electrical tape
2) take off the saddle
3) wrap the seat post amply with the e-tape
4) wrap the carbon seat tube same
5) get a silver made in china cheap curved jawed large vice grip
4) cut off two sections of black road inner tube
5) slip one section inner tube over the e-taped post;
other over the carbon e-taped seat tube
6) grip the post inner tube/ e-tape with the chinee vice grip medium firm
7) get large hard rubber mallet ..chinee or no
8) while putting firm turn pressure on the vice jaw post & slight upward
9) ...lightly tap the inner tubed/e-taped seat post with dah mallet
10) off she comes
11) if not, remove black e-tape and replace with red.
12) repeat procedure 1-11.
put brain gear back in start up. have a brew ....next time you install the post put some light lube on it; wipe it off. insert post. twist a bit. if it is real tight you still got a problemo. change brew brand to a stronger cereal malt. no artificial ingredients. recommend an oatmeal stout. always at cellar temp. or brown paper sacked and put in the cool spot of the garage. never let tha bottle see daylight. never drink outta dah bottle. use british pint (20oz) glass and one inch of head.first sniff the brew. then drink slowly letting the amber liquid go over the back of the tongue where the bitter taste buds lie.
if the ideer doesn't work at first change to brown e-tape; & australian stout in the 27.6 hard capped botts; diesel oil taste; cheap but will get tha job done. never try & solve bike problems with the ice-cold pilsners @ 28 degree temp in the summer as by the time they kikk in the brain has gone elsewhere from the solution at hand. and no wine either. grape fermentations don't have the best effect as the cereal brews do.
"the new world guide to BEER"
Quatro Publishing, Inc.
Running Press ...Philly, Pa.
1988, hardback w/ dust cover