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Star-flange nut alternatives?(6 posts)

Star-flange nut alternatives?Marlon
May 17, 2001 5:13 AM
My darned threadless headset is loosening up all the time due to the star nut just not grabbing when I tighten the top cap down, and I'm thinking of getting alternatives. Any recommendations for other systems to use?
re: Star-flange nut alternatives?DEANguy
May 17, 2001 7:13 AM
My Ouzo Pro came with this cool expanding plug looking device. Looks like a stopper that goes in the top of a test tube. It expands as you tighten the bolt. Very neat idea for carbon steerer tubes. Maybe you can inquire as to if something similar is made for your fork. Or you could just need a new star nut(would be the cheaper way to go).
I don't think you're doing it right.Spoke Wrench
May 17, 2001 7:48 AM
The STEM is what holds your threadless headset in adjustment. The only purpose of the star fangled nut is to hold the bearing pre-load until you clamp the stem tight. For proof, just look at how lightly top caps are made. They obviously aren't designed to cope with headset forces.

1. Loosen the stem clamp bolts.
2. Adjust the bearing pre-load via the top cap.
3. Tighten the stem onto the steer tube.

That's it! If your headset keeps coming loose, I'd suspect you have a problem with your stem and steer tube interface.
I don't think you're doing it right.DEANguy
May 17, 2001 12:08 PM
I have to quit assuming that people have already done the obvious. You are right, I just thought his top cap was was coming loose.
Its star-fangled nut, not star flanged!!!headset inspector
May 17, 2001 9:00 AM
All this misinformation around!! Follow Spokewrenches advice. Hes right.
re: Star-flange nut alternatives?Jay G
May 19, 2001 3:13 AM
I just installed an FSA headset on my mtn. bike.
Rather than the star-fangled nut, it uses a thing
called a Conix...and its available for like 8-10 bucks
separately from the headset.
It's basically the stopper thing that was referred to
earlier in the thread. You drop it in before the stem and
crank down on this internal bolt. The stopper has 4 sets of
teeth blocks that engage the fork more as you tighten it...as you can imagine you crank the sucker down REALLY tight to really dig the teeth into the fork...which might be bad news if you run a carbon steerer fork. It's similar to the way an old cinelli stem would tighten into the steerer tube.
Next you put the stem on and then the top cap. You crank the top cap
that engages a larger set of threads inside the stopper. The tightness of this top cap bolt in the Conix design is what is used to adjust the headset...much easier than my King no-threadset on the road bike...where you follow the procedure of adjusting the headset using the stem...as described earlier. The other thing is that you might have to cut your fork down about a half centimeter to cent. or just pull out a similarly-sized spacer. This will allow for you to crank down on the Conix top nut and adjust the headset...you otherwise would bottom out the top nut. All in all I think its a way cool and reliable design. Some other reviews though are all over the map...but I sometimes question objectivity and the mechanic experience of the people reviewing some stuff.

One last thing...if you have a carbon steerer, you may have crushed the top of the fork while cranking down your top bolt. You'll notice that a lot of the pro-bikes now have a spacer on top of the stem/headset of a carbon steerer fork to protect against overtightening and the other forces we put our steering through.

Good luck!

Jay