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hubs-7 speed!(11 posts)

hubs-7 speed!bonsai171
Apr 20, 2001 4:42 PM
I have a 7 speed hub on my bike, and i'm going over to a new wheelset.. will my gears work on an 8 speed hub?? I'm going to use the performance forte 8/9speed hub
YesSpoke Wrench
Apr 20, 2001 7:05 PM
You'll have to get a spacer to fit behind your 7-speed cassette. Bike shops have them for about $5.00.

You'll also probably have to get rid of the little bolts or rivets that hold your cassette together. The bolts just unscrew, rivets can be ground off with a Dremel or a file. Then just slide the individual cassette parts onto the freehub body. If you don't do this, the bolt heads will upset the cassette spacing just enough so that the lock ring won't tighten.
Yesbonsai171
Apr 23, 2001 7:55 PM
Good idea. Do you think it would work to put a very small gear on the end instead? I could definitely get one
Maybetommyb
Apr 20, 2001 9:51 PM
It may work, assuming your 7 speed is cassette, and not freewheel. You were talking about an older bike recently, and depending on how old, it may be a freewheel, and not cassette system. A freewheel will not work with an 8/9 speed cassette hub.
Maybebonsai171
Apr 23, 2001 7:43 PM
I really don't know what it is. The bike is a '76 Schwinn Continental if that helps any. Is there some way to tell if it is a cassette system or freewheel?
Freewheeltommyb
Apr 24, 2001 1:45 AM
It's definitely a freewheel if it's the original wheel. Cassettes didn't come out until the mid or late 80s. Plus, if it's a Continental, it's a five speed freewheel, not the seven speed that you mentioned in your original post. If it is really seven speed, it's not the original wheel.
'76 Continental???tommyb
Apr 24, 2001 1:48 AM
Are you sure you want to upgrade a '76 Continental. It's a great piece of history, but not worth upgrading any more than a '76 Chevy Nova would be. Restore it if you want, or ride it as is, but don't invest a lot of money into it.

Just my opinion.
'76 Continental???bonsai171
Apr 24, 2001 7:14 AM
that's a point. This is my first racing bike, after riding two different mountain bikes for quite a while. A newer racing bike would be very nice, but as we all know it costs a lot of money to buy a nice one, or even more to build from scratch (if you don't have parts laying around). I'm a college student at the moment. The main reason I want to change the rims on the bike is because there it a blip in the rim that can't be fixed (and is damaging my brake pads) and also since the rims aren't clinchers, so my tires don't sit very well on them. heh, I don't feel like flying off the bike at 35mph! So my options are to either change the rims and maybe spend $80-$100, or leave the bike as is and only ride the tires (which take 90psi) at 70 or less.
Freewheelbonsai171
Apr 24, 2001 7:05 AM
I'm definitely sure it's the original wheel. So I guess I'm looking at a freewheel. Yeah, you're right, it is definitely a 5 speed- the bike is a ten speed. I get these things a little bit confused! Is it possible to change over to cassettes? Maybe I could get an 8 or 9 speed cassette and eventually change the rear derailer and shifters
re: hubs-7 speed!Vergil
Apr 21, 2001 4:27 AM
Just went through the process on my Allez carbon. SW is dead-on and Tommyb is right also.

The problem I encoutered was that the drop-outs would not accept the wheel as set up for the 8/9 spacing. I could make the wheel fit by splaying the drop-outs about 3 mm, but that's not the best for the frame and it would make changing the tire single-handed in 30 F weather more difficult than it needs to be.

So, the shop where I bought the wheel replaced the thick washer on the left with a narrow one and cut the axle to fit between the skewers. Now the wheel is parallel to the frame but off center about 3 mm. Don't think this is my imagination. Will ride for the first time this morning and let you know if I notice the difference - don't suspect I will.
Shop should have finished the jobSpoke Wrench
Apr 21, 2001 6:06 AM
You need to re-dish your wheel. You can do that yourself by loosening the spokes on the non-drive side and tightening the spokes on the drive side. If you adjust each spoke by the same amount, it won't affect your wheel's trueness. I'd do it in small increments. It's better to go 1/4 turn at a time and go around the wheel several times than to try to do it all in one adjustment.